If your alloy wheels have superficial scratches, you may be wondering how you can make them look like new again. The process is fairly easy, and as long as you have the right supplies and some patience, you can do the work yourself.

First, take a good look at the damage. If the damage isn’t superficial and actually affects the wheel, you won’t be able to repair the wheel yourself. Also, if the scratches or scrapes cover a large portion of the wheel’s surface, you may not be able to get great results on your own. If you have a smaller superficial scratch, then you can proceed. Remember to always allow for proper ventilation when working with chemicals and avoid getting them on your skin. Always keep chemicals out of the reach of children as well.

The first step is to thoroughly clean your wheel surface. Any traces of dirt and wax must be removed in order for the repair to work. Scrub the tire and wheel with a good quality dish detergent to get them as clean as possible. Next, use a lint-free cloth and some paint thinner to remove any remaining silicone and wax. Dry the wheel completely.

Using masking tape, mask off the area of the wheel that needs repair. Then, using 240-grit sandpaper, lightly sand only the scratched area and then apply Bondo spot putty. Don’t try to sand the entire wheel or an area larger than necessary – this will just be wasted effort on your part. In addition, wet sanding works better than dry sanding, and a sanding block works better than a sheet of sandpaper.

Once the area has been sanded, use Bondo spot putty to cover the scratch. The putty will work better if the day isn’t too cold or damp – you want a warm, dry work area for best results. Allow the putty to dry thoroughly and then use finer 400-grit sandpaper to sand the area until it looks and feels smooth. Again, use a sanding block for best results.

Now it’s time to prime. Choose a special spot filler primer designed to work with metallic paint. Before you start to paint, make sure the painting area is thoroughly masked and the rest of the car is covered – you really don’t want to have to clean stray spray paint and primer off your car! After the primer has dried, you may need to do a bit more sanding or apply a bit more putty and repeat the process. The idea is to get the area as perfectly repaired as possible before you move on to painting. As you work, immediately clean up any excess primer using paint thinner. When all is done, lightly sand the primer using 400- or 600-grit sandpaper.

Next, read and follow all instructions on the can of wheel lacquer you’ve purchased, and it’s a good idea to practice before you paint your repair. Again, paint only the repaired area, not the entire wheel. Use paint thinner to clean up any over-spray immediately. As with any spray paint job, a couple of light coats are much better than one overly-heavy coat. If you can, allow the paint to dry overnight before proceeding.

Once the paint has dried thoroughly – again, check the label directions – you’re ready to apply clear coat, high gloss lacquer. Read and follow all instructions on the can and again, a couple of light coats are better than one overly heavy coat. Focus on feathering the edges into the rest of the wheel without spraying the entire wheel. Once the clear coat has dried completely, you can use a really fine 1500- or 2000-grit sandpaper to feather it even more at the edges. Polish your entire wheel and your repair should be virtually seamless.