Complicating matters is the fact that you have to distinguish between new cars and cars that are several years old. For a new car, things are often simpler – after all, there simply isn’t that much data to compile and analyze. For older cars, however, you have to look at how they have held up in an historical perspective. Perhaps the car in question was great for the first three years, but then developed severe transmission issues in about 75 percent of the five speed automatic models. That’s exactly the kind of thing you can find out in the Consumer Reports publications.

Consumer Reports, as the name implies, compiles reports that it gathers from its members and consumers. That means that if something wasn’t studied – whether a model of car or a specific car system – they’ll have no information regarding it. You need to approach Consumer Reports knowing what you’re looking for, with a willingness to search using a variety of terms. Keep in mind also that the absence of evidence doesn’t, in and of itself, constitute evidence. For example, if Consumer Reports doesn’t have information about the transmission of a 2005 Whatzit, that doesn’t mean that there aren’t problems with it, just that Consumer Reports hasn’t yet studied and reported on it.

So let’s say you’re interested in a particular car that hasn’t yet been reported on by Consumer Reports, although they have reported on other cars in that class. You can still use Consumer Reports to determine which car is best in class. Find out why they chose that particular car as best in class and use those same criteria to evaluate the car you’re interested in. In this way, Consumer Reports can give you tools to use in your own individual evaluations. Think of this as being given a yardstick to use to measure your prospective car with.

In addition, reliability isn’t a single measure, so you won’t find a single report termed “reliability” in Consumer Reports. For this reason, you have to acquaint yourself with the environment of the reports. There are different ways to approach reliability – what could be reliable in one class of cars in one area might be completely unacceptable in another class. You have to understand what’s being discussed to be able to use the information given to its full advantage. For example, the reliability of a truck used around the clock for work will be markedly different from the reliability of a Prius, where a 24-hour run time is less of an issue. By understanding the metrics Consumer Reports uses, as well as what’s important for the class of car you’re considering, you’ll be able to take full advantage of this great source of information.

But rather than a distinct and single part, the strut is actually an integrated assembly of components that handle the support and suspension of the vehicle together – often at the critical front end. The strut holds up the great weight of the engine and provides a smooth response to any irregularities in the road. It’s equipped with an internal shock absorber to dampen the rebound force of the spring under weight, preventing the car from effectively throwing itself off the road.

The entire assembly is structurally integrated into the overall car, as it connects the upper bearing to a ball joint below. This allows the wheel assembly to pivot when the steering is activated. But although it was originally hailed as a masterpiece of simplicity in addressing complex mechanical problems, the integrated nature of the strut can cause just as many problems when the time comes for servicing.

And servicing it will need, as it takes the lion’s share of the force involved in the bumps and bashes of driving. Try to have your struts checked at least annually by a qualified mechanic – doing it yourself can be seriously risky unless you have plenty of experience working as a mechanic. Some websites offer illustrated guides that can be helpful, but it’s also recommended to combine strut checks with wheel alignments, which you definitely can’t do at home!

Small repairs may be made by mechanics who will replace the elements around the spring using a specialized tool called a spring compressor. But more often, for convenience and for more comprehensive repairs, they’ll replace the entire setup. New strut suspension units are designed to wear out, as do the shocks, making replacement a safer and more convenient bet. The advantage is also keenly felt in savings on labor in the quality of your ride.

As for signs that your struts are wearing out, unfortunately, it can be difficult to notice the differences in handling as the carriage elements of your struts wear down. However, some things to watch out for include:

* Bouncing excessively
* Bottoming out
* Unusual rocking
* Drifting or weaving on the road
* Nose-diving action
* Rocking and side-swaying

If these signs do pop up and you realize it’s time for service, be prepared for several other problems to be ‘outed’ in the process. Worn strut elements usually go hand in hand with other parts of your suspension and steering assembly. Because elements of the struts involve plenty of work to take apart and replace, it’s often a good idea to replace not only the strut assembly, but other suspension elements, such as the coil springs, in order to save on labor in the long run.

Start Me Up!

We’ve all been there – woken up late, no time for coffee, late for work and rushing out the door. You reach the car and the last thing on your mind is car care, right? Well think again! Starting up your car with climate control, lights, stereo and other accessories switched on can drain your battery rapidly and stress the circuits. Instead of cranking the key, you jump in to the car, crank the key, rev the motor and zoom – you’re off!

Next time, think twice – you could be damaging your battery by not giving it adequate time to warm up, and you’re definitely wearing the engine down earlier than necessary. Oh, but you’re warming the engine up by revving, it right? Wrong! Revving your engine when it’s cold wears down the seals and rings in the engine, which can cost up to $1,000 to replace!

Instead, when your car is starting cold, crank the key a few times to give the battery a chance to warm up. Then, turn on the engine and let the motor idle for a few minutes to avoid putting too much stress on the rings and seals.

Feeling Tire-d?

Ever seen prospective car buyers ‘kicking the tires’ of their desired ride in the movies and wondered what they’re up to? Ironically, inspecting tires is – in fact – more worthwhile after you’ve bought the car and should be a regular part of caring for your car to keep costs down. Every tire has a recommended pressure that it should be maintained at – you can usually find this written around the rim of the tire, usually expressed in PSI (pounds per square inch).

Keeping your tires at lower-than-recommended air pressure will overheat the tires and cause unnecessary wear, while overdoing the pressure will overinflate the tire and cause the contact area to be uneven – meaning that the tire will wear unevenly. Either way, you’ll be stuck with a bill of up to $600 for a new set of tires! Check the pressure of your tires every week or so – more regularly if you live in an area with severe changes in temperature, which can flatten tires more quickly. A steady eye on tire pressure could save you around $100 per year.

Running on Empty?

Few people enjoy filling up their car with gas – especially as pump prices continue to batter the back pocket – and many of us avoid it until the last possible moment. But are we really saving money? The answer is a big fat no! The hidden cost is in the damage to your fuel system, caused by sediment – minute pieces of dirt – flowing through your engine.

Generally, this crud sinks to the bottom of your fuel tank and only enters the fuel line when you hit empty. If it’s sucked into the fuel lines, it can damage your fuel injectors (around $80 to replace) and your fuel filter (closer to $180). In addition, the labor costs on a complete fuel system flush can be as much as $1,000. So keep that tank at least one-quarter full – even if it’s tempting to drive past the gas station and come back later!

By simply warming your car up in the mornings, maintaining its tire pressure and keeping it well-stocked with fuel, you can save up to $2,000 annually – all without spending an extra cent.

But how does the government get these cars? Well, they get most of them from criminals who have been involved in criminal cases or from criminals who purchased the cars with stolen or illegally printed money. Once the government has possession of the cars, they attempt to find the previous, legal owner and return the vehicle. However, that isn’t always possible, and if a car isn’t returned within a certain amount of time, it’s sent to public auction.

Most government repossessed cars are auctioned off by a private auctioning service. While these auctions are open to everyone, it can be difficult to know when and where they are. The problem is that you can’t simply go to a police station and ask them what company handles their seized car auctions. Instead, you need to look up small auction companies in your area. Many of these companies are so small that they don’t do a lot of advertising, so you may have to simply go through the local listings and call several different auction houses before you find one that deals in repossessed cars.

Once you’ve found an auction service that sells repossessed vehicles, it’s time to go visit them. Once there, you should be able to find a list of repossessed cars that are coming up for auction. Try to get as much information as you can, especially on any cars you’re interested in. Also, find out what you’ll need to bring with you to the auction in case you end up buying a car – for example, how payment is accepted, what documents do you need, and how long will you have to claim the car. If possible, go to an auction just to observe before you go to one with the intent to buy so you can see how everything works. Don’t assume these auto repossession auctions will work like estate sales or other auctions you’ve attended – you never know what special rules you’ll need to follow.

Finally, once you’ve seen how the auctions work and have found a vehicle or two you want to bid on, it’s time to jump right in and try to get yourself a great deal on a car. Remember to apply the general rules that should be followed at all auctions. Keep your maximum price in mind at all times. Don’t get caught up in a bidding war; if you do, you’re likely to end up spending much more than you wanted to. If someone bids more than your maximum amount, let them have it. If you don’t, you’ll regret spending more money than you should have.

One of the first things most people may not realize is that there are some eligibility requirements that your vehicle must meet before it’s eligible for the cash for clunkers exchange. This was done to help ensure that only cars that are high in gas consumption would be able to get the government money. If you’re interested in finding out if your vehicle will qualify for this rebate, check out the following guidelines.

First of all, the car has to be less than twenty five years old at the time that you trade it in, and you have to be using the credit on a new vehicle. The vehicle that you’re trading in must get less than eighteen miles per gallon, which is determined based on standards that are set up and accepted by the government. However, if you drive a large pick-up truck or cargo van, you’ll want to check with the dealer to make sure that it meets the requirements, as the MPG rating on these vehicles is slightly different since they’re naturally less fuel efficient.

In addition, if you’re going to trade in a vehicle through the cash for clunkers program, you’ll have to make sure that it has been registered and insured by you on a continuous basis for at least one year prior to the trade in date. Plus, you’ll need to make sure that the car is in drivable condition, as this is also one of the requirements. The program is set to run from the first of July 2009 until the first of November 2009 or until funds are depleted. In fact, the program has already reached its funding limit once, although Congress was quick to approve more funding.

So, if you think that your vehicle may qualify for the cash for clunkers rebate and you can afford the payment on a new car, go to your local dealer as soon as possible to make sure that you’re a part of this amazing government incentive. Or, if you have further questions concerning your eligibility or the program in general, you can visit the government’s official website at www.cars.gov. This way, you can directly verify what the government considers the official MPG rating of your vehicle so that you can go into the dealer prepared. But, if this is something that you are considering you will need to move fast – there’s no guarantee how long the funds will last.

Don’t Buy Them!

The best way to save on new tires is to not buy them at all! In other words, do everything you can to extend the life of your current tires. This starts with having them fitted and regularly serviced by tire experts. A good wheel balance and wheel alignment can add up to 50% to the life of your tires. You can also add up to 5% to the life of your tires by keeping them inflated at the maximum recommended pressure (which can be found printed on the tire wall). One final tip is to avoid tricked-out, extra-wide tires. Sure, they look great; but they increase road friction and you’ll wear through them 20% faster than normal tires.

Are You Sure You Need Them?

The first step to wise tire buying is to be 100% sure that you really need new tires. Many people know that a vibration in the steering wheel can be a sign of worn tires – but it can also be a sign of needing a wheel balance or wheel alignment. Check with a tire technician, who should be willing to make a free recommendation on the hopes of getting the job after you’ve decided what you need.

When and How to Change Tires

The best time to change your tires is just before winter hits. New tires can add a great deal to the traction of a slippery road and the absence of hot summer tarmac will extend the life of the tire as well. But don’t wait for signs of slipping or tire damage to put your life at risk – have your tires looked at least once a year to know exactly how they’re faring. Finally, ask the technician if you’re able to change just one pair of the tires – a great trick is to move the back tires up to the front and focus all your budget on a single pair to replace the back set.

Shop Around

Shopping around has always been a good idea, but in these tough financial times, it’s an even better one. Plenty of companies are competing ferociously to emerge from the crisis with a bigger share of the tire market. Some of the larger chains are also using their buying power to bring better prices to customers. Meanwhile, you could also take advantage of any smaller local outfits that are going out of business and offering closing up specials.

Finally, be sure to take advantage of the amount of information that’s available online and compare the various tire sellers in a wide geographic area – a great bargain might be a mere half hour’s drive away.

The Nissan 370Z is the latest entrant in the Nissan Z class, and they’ve done something fairly interesting with this car that may escape most people’s notice, but shouldn’t. Japanese car companies have inherited a bit of philosophy from the Samurai, called “horse and rider as one.” What this means is that there’s not only a union between the two, but that they can go back and forth between extremes within the union instantaneously. This increases both the enjoyment of the experience and the utility that you get out of that experience. It’s really not a bad way to look at any vehicle, anywhere.

By not trying to achieve the fastest, or the hardest, or any of the “-ests” that most sports cars strive for, Nissan has produced a car you can ride on a day-to-day basis, but that you can still take out for a thrilling ride on the weekend or to impress that special someone in your life. The 370Z has a larger – and quite frankly more powerful – engine than its immediate predecessor, the 350Z. The handling is also quicker and more responsive, and the 370Z comes with variable valve timing and lift, which puts out 332 horsepower. Overall, that’s 17 more horsepower than the 2010 V8 Mustang – look out, cowboys.

A six speed transmission comes standard, but any serious driver should opt for the sport package. This particular deal includes a SynchroRevMatch, which tweaks the throttle during downshifts, meaning that you no longer have to heel and toe downshift. In addition, the 370Z can go from 0 to 60 mph in 5.1 seconds. Interestingly, it will also stop from 60 mph in 101 feet. Best of all, it gives you all of this with a fuel economy of 18 mpg in the city and 26 mpg on the highway – which is rather respectable for a sports car with this much power.

The interior also offers features that will make your daily driving experience much more pleasant. There’s an overall attention to detail that makes the car feel much more expensive that it really is. In addition, the steering column and the seats move in such a way that shorter and taller drivers alike will feel comfortable. The instrument pod will also tilt along with the wheel, although some drivers have reported problems with gauge reflection at the higher tilt settings.

Overall, you’ll find that the power under the hood transmits well to the driver and the road, giving you tight control that could be described as – well – how many ways can you say smooth? In short, this is a fine car that’s well worth its price tag.

Although helmets aren’t mandatory in all states, consider them to be essential equipment. Seriously – if you crash (and your chances of doing so are higher than they are in a car), your helmet will provide the necessary protection to help you avoid head trauma. Look for a helmet that complies with DOT impact requirements – compliant helmets will have a sticker on them showing this fact.

However, you also need to be sure that your helmet doesn’t affect your ability to see. After all your ability to be aware of what is happening around you is one of your most important safety tools. Full face helmets are probably best avoided for this reason. Eye protection is a personal choice, whether you choose goggles or a shield on your helmet. Some people consider this mandatory, while others argue that an unrestricted view matters more.

What no one questions are a motorcycle jacket and pants. These don’t just look cool – they offer real protection against abrasions. If you lean your bike over while riding, good pants will help protect you from serious skid injuries. Think about it – do you really want to spend the day of your crash at the doctor’s office having pieces of gravel picked out of your skin? Go ahead and get the jacket and pants instead.

The same is true of quality leather gloves and boots. Typically, your boots should come up over the ankle and your gloves should come up over your jacket sleeves. These types of clothing offer a great deal of protection – there’s a reason why styles may change, but these pieces remain classic elements of motorcycle gear.

One thing you’ll have to learn early on is how to turn while riding a motorcycle. In fact, you don’t turn as much as you lean. To start, slow down slightly before you enter a turn. Press the handlebar slightly in the direction of the turn and maintain a slight pressure on the handlebar as you lean into the turn. Keep your feet on the pegs and grip the tank with your knees. Lean with the motorcycle – don’t sit perpendicular to the road. Keep an even throttle through the turn or accelerate slightly. Practice turning at lower speeds until you get the hang of it. Wear your leather pants while practicing, along with the other safety gear outlined above.

In addition, you should know that most wrecks between motorcycles and cars occur at intersections. Always check around you completely when you’re at intersections. When you’re moving through an intersection, try to let all of the traffic ahead of you be at least a two-second interval ahead of you at all times. This gives you the space and time you need to react if something goes wrong.

So while this information should be enough to get you safely to your class, know that there’s really no substitute for training and experience when it comes to being safe on your motorcycle.

The next consideration is the motorcycle itself. The insurance you need will be dependent on the type of bike you have. A touring cruiser will need a different insurance approach than a Japanese rice rocket – and both of those will be different from the policy a heavy Harley needs. This is where good communication with your agent will come in handy.

The next issue is you. How old are you? What kind of credit rating do you have? In other words, how much stability do you bring to the insurance company’s table? Of course, you won’t be able to change most of these factors, but they will affect your insurance premiums, so you need to know about them.

One of the biggest personal factors in the policy and rates you’ll qualify for is your driving record. There isn’t much you can do about your past record, so admit and acknowledge that, and then move on. What you can do to improve this score is find insurance underwriters who will give discounts for things like attending motorcycle safety courses or going a certain period of time without a claim. Each company will have slightly different policies, so it’s a good idea to call around and find the one that best suits your driving style.

It also makes sense to talk to the agent with whom you have your car and home insurance. Most insurance companies give you a discount if you have multiple vehicles or properties insured with them. However, don’t just choose your current company’s policy because of a low price if the coverage isn’t what you really need.

There’s an old saying that the only kind of insurance people buy planning to use it is maternity coverage and funeral expense coverage. While you may not be planning to use your motorcycle insurance – and we hope you never have to – you have to be realistic about the possibility of having a claim, due to your greater exposure to the elements. Again, don’t just buy your insurance based on who has the lowest price. Consider intangibles like customer satisfaction and the company’s reputation for claims handling when making your final decision.

In addition to talking to your friends or other bike owners, you can search the Internet to find insurance companies who handle motorcycle insurance. More importantly, you can read reviews where people will tell you what their experiences have been. Since more people with negative experiences will probably share their stories, you need to take these reviews with a grain of salt. However, consider the overall pattern of complaints – you might find something mentioned often that’s an absolute deal breaker for you.

In fact, if you’re buying a low mileage car, like a fleet car or tester, then the car is probably still under the manufacturer’s warranty. Before you begin negotiating for a dealer warranty on that car, ask for a copy of the manufacturer’s warranty. You may be able to use that warranty as your basis and have the dealer build on that. You might ask, for example, to have coverage extended an additional number of miles. Even if you aren’t able to get a warranty extension on all of your car’s systems, you may be able to significantly improve the remaining manufacturer’s warranty.

Next, find out if your dealer participates in a larger warranty protection group. If a larger group is underwriting the warranty, find out who is doing the underwriting and check out their reputation. The Better Business Bureau is a good place to start to find out if any complaints have been filed against the company. Call up the company as well and ask for more information about the policy. Any reputable company will have no problem giving you information on warranty terms before you buy. Be wary of any company that hesitates when it comes to providing you with details and complete information about the warranty’s terms.

In addition, it’s important to note that a warranty is only as good as the company standing behind it. These days, with dealerships going under every day, having a warranty with a larger underwriting company – instead of an individual dealer – may be a good bet. If you do have a dealer’s warranty, you can also ask your dealer what provisions have been made to honor warranties if the dealership closes, merges or fails.

Beyond this, begin the warranty negotiations just as you would any negotiations – by knowing what you must have, what you’d like to have and where you’re willing to compromise. Start by asking for more than you have to have so you have some room to compromise. If the dealership provides service, you might ask about throwing in oil changes as part of the warranty. It also helps to know the dollar value of the things you’re asking for. It wouldn’t make sense, for example, for a dealer to agree to a warranty worth $5,000 on a $10,000 car – your lack of knowledge may even weaken your negotiation position, so do your homework ahead of time.

Above all, know that you have an ace in the hole – you can walk away if your needs aren’t met. You have to fall in love with the whole deal – not just the car – and the warranty should certainly be considered to be part of that package.