Start Me Up!

We’ve all been there – woken up late, no time for coffee, late for work and rushing out the door. You reach the car and the last thing on your mind is car care, right? Well think again! Starting up your car with climate control, lights, stereo and other accessories switched on can drain your battery rapidly and stress the circuits. Instead of cranking the key, you jump in to the car, crank the key, rev the motor and zoom – you’re off!

Next time, think twice – you could be damaging your battery by not giving it adequate time to warm up, and you’re definitely wearing the engine down earlier than necessary. Oh, but you’re warming the engine up by revving, it right? Wrong! Revving your engine when it’s cold wears down the seals and rings in the engine, which can cost up to $1,000 to replace!

Instead, when your car is starting cold, crank the key a few times to give the battery a chance to warm up. Then, turn on the engine and let the motor idle for a few minutes to avoid putting too much stress on the rings and seals.

Feeling Tire-d?

Ever seen prospective car buyers ‘kicking the tires’ of their desired ride in the movies and wondered what they’re up to? Ironically, inspecting tires is – in fact – more worthwhile after you’ve bought the car and should be a regular part of caring for your car to keep costs down. Every tire has a recommended pressure that it should be maintained at – you can usually find this written around the rim of the tire, usually expressed in PSI (pounds per square inch).

Keeping your tires at lower-than-recommended air pressure will overheat the tires and cause unnecessary wear, while overdoing the pressure will overinflate the tire and cause the contact area to be uneven – meaning that the tire will wear unevenly. Either way, you’ll be stuck with a bill of up to $600 for a new set of tires! Check the pressure of your tires every week or so – more regularly if you live in an area with severe changes in temperature, which can flatten tires more quickly. A steady eye on tire pressure could save you around $100 per year.

Running on Empty?

Few people enjoy filling up their car with gas – especially as pump prices continue to batter the back pocket – and many of us avoid it until the last possible moment. But are we really saving money? The answer is a big fat no! The hidden cost is in the damage to your fuel system, caused by sediment – minute pieces of dirt – flowing through your engine.

Generally, this crud sinks to the bottom of your fuel tank and only enters the fuel line when you hit empty. If it’s sucked into the fuel lines, it can damage your fuel injectors (around $80 to replace) and your fuel filter (closer to $180). In addition, the labor costs on a complete fuel system flush can be as much as $1,000. So keep that tank at least one-quarter full – even if it’s tempting to drive past the gas station and come back later!

By simply warming your car up in the mornings, maintaining its tire pressure and keeping it well-stocked with fuel, you can save up to $2,000 annually – all without spending an extra cent.

Removing a bumper sticker from your car is actually a fairly simple process. The first thing you’ll need to do is to go to your local hardware or paint store. You’ll need two supplies – a scraper with a single, straight razor blade in a safety handle and denatured alcohol, which is usually available in small containers. If you don’t have any at home, you might also want to pick up some cleaning rags while you’re at the store.

The easiest decals to remove are the ones that are stuck to the glass parts of your car. Use the scraper to scrape them from the glass surface – your razor blade scraper shouldn’t cause any damage to the glass. Some bits of adhesive residue will probably remain on the glass once the sticker is removed, so apply a little denatured alcohol to one of your cleaning rags and rub it firmly against the adhesive residue. It will soon dissolve and rub away. Use a clean rag to wipe off the glass and you’re finished. This same process will remove stickers of any kind from virtually any glass surface.

Unfortunately, it’s a bit trickier to remove a bumper sticker from a painted surface. You’ll need to use great care to avoid damaging the painted surface underneath the bumper sticker and use the scraper with a very light touch to avoid nicking or damaging the paint. To start, gently hold the scraper at a low angle, almost parallel to the painted surface. Starting from the corners, work on one small section of the bumper sticker at a time. Patiently slide the blade between the sticker and the painted surface. With luck, you may be able to peel most of the bumper sticker from the painted surface from one of the corners. If that doesn’t work, you may need to rub the sticker regularly with the denatured alcohol to help dissolve the adhesive as you scrape. Generally, the newer the sticker, the easier it is to remove.

The last step after removing stickers from any surface is to clean the area with some soap and water. Generally, the alcohol will evaporate, but any bits that remain could eventually affect your paint, so it’s best not to leave anything to chance.

If you want to work on removing a sticker but don’t have the time to make a trip to the hardware store or if you want a more eco-friendly alternative, you can try using olive oil or vinegar instead of denatured alcohol. The process will be slower, but with patience, you should get the same results. As with the denatured alcohol, make sure to thoroughly remove any vinegar from painted surfaces, as the vinegary will eventually break down the paint.

You see, the fuel filter exists to filter sediment out of the gasoline before it gets to your engine. Fuel filters are a fairly new invention and they were designed based on the premise that the cleaner the gas, the better and cleaner it burns – meaning maximum miles per gallon and less wear and tear on the engine.

As a premise, that’s fine. The thing is that gasolines today are already filled with detergents and additives that help your engine stay clean. Most sedimentary material is so heavy it just sinks to the bottom of the gas tank – very seldom does anything actually get into your gas tank that will be sucked up into the fuel line, where it could clog the fuel line or create a problem.

So while fuel filters are a good idea, it may be that they do very little in terms of cleaning the gasoline or substantially improving the performance of your car in most situations. Does that mean you should ignore them? No. You should see that the fuel filter is replaced according to the schedule your car manufacturer outlines in your owner’s manual – not more frequently. In fact, when you have your oil changed, the folks under the car are probably already checking the fuel filter and will let you know when it’s time for it to be changed. No need not to let them handle it since they’re already under there.

But how much will it cost to have your car’s fuel filter replaced? Again, that will vary. Some commercial oil changing establishments will include the fuel filter in the cost of an oil change, while others will charge for it separately. The filter itself isn’t very expensive, averaging around $5-20. The labor cost will vary depending on the policies of the oil changing establishment. Depending on the make and model of your car, you may even be able to change the fuel filter yourself. Again, consult your owner’s manual or speak with someone at your local auto parts store to see if this is an option for you.

If you don’t replace your fuel filter according to schedule, what will happen? Probably nothing you’ll really notice, unless you drive a high performance car or obsessively calculate your mileage per gallon. However, it certainly won’t hurt to have the filter changed regularly and it’s cheap enough to add to your routine maintenance schedule without taking a big dent out of your budget.

If you’re in that small minority that has some experience with body work, you’re probably already well acquainted with how to remove dings and dents. The rest of us, on the other hand, will likely need to seek professional help to repair the damage.

First, realize that hail damage isn’t as much a technical problem as it is an administrative one. The first step is to adequately assess the damage. You’ll need plenty of light, as the damage may not be visible without the right light.

Once you have an idea of the extent of the damage, go get an estimate from a body shop. A good shop will be glad to give you an estimate. Now, compare the estimate to the deductible on your insurance if it covers hail damage. If the estimate is less, pay the repair out of pocket or, if the damage isn’t severe, do nothing. On the other hand, if the damage is severe or the deductible is less than the estimate, it may be time to file a claim.

If this is the case, it’s time to contact the insurance company that has underwritten your policy. You’ll need to make an appointment with an adjuster to assess the damage. This is where the private estimate you have will serve you well. Be sure to be present when the agent goes over the car. Compare his report to yours and offer him the one you’ve already got. Agents can make mistakes, so be professional but firm.

Once the value of the claim is established, you need to see what your options are. Don’t make the mistake of thinking you have to do what the insurance company says. Ask questions. They will have their preferred shops, but they may also give you the option to pay a flat fee so that you go to whatever shop you choose. Know what options are available before you commit to any repair shop.

You can also try to negotiate the way the payments will be handled. Some companies will ask you to pick up the payment, while others will want to pay the repair facility directly. While this is the simplest option for you – the policy holder – it may be the most expensive. On the other hand, there are cases where the repair must be paid for by the policy holder before you’ll be reimbursed for the cost of the repair. This can be a long, drawn out process, but the savings can easily be in the hundreds of dollars.

Once you’ve had the repair done, check the repairs against the original estimate. In addition, check to be sure that all that was damaged was properly repaired.

While this may seem like a rather involved process, you can use the system to your advantage. By doing so, you’ll be able to not only get the damage repaired – you might save yourself a quite a bit of change in the process.

Where you drive the car is another factor to consider. The hard winters of the northern states mean road salt, making rust-proofing is more of a necessity than a choice.

In addition, if you think of your car as an investment and expect to get several hundred thousand miles out of it, rust-proofing is an important step in your car’s maintenance. In this case, you’ve really already made this choice – the only thing left is how to accomplish it.

If you car credentials fall more along the lines of ownership than mechanical prowess, give some serious consideration to having your rust-proofing done professionally. Just call your local auto body shop to get their prices – if they don’t offer the service, they’ll certainly know someone in town who does offer it.

Or, if you’re ready to do this on your own, keep in mind that although it isn’t particularly difficult, there are a few points you need to keep in mind. First, choose a good professional grade of rust-proofing fluid. There are several options out there and you’ll find a wide selection at your local auto supplier.

Next, be sure that the car is completely dry before you rust-proof – in fact, if there’s a better than average chance of rain, postpone the project for another day. Temperature is another factor – this isn’t a cold weather project. The warmer the day, the better the flow of the rust-proofing fluid and the better coverage you’ll get.

Your next step is to clean under the car. Get all the mud off the undercarriage, using a stiff wire brush to get off the big chunks. Mud won’t be as big a problem under the hood and in the trunk as it is with the undercarriage, but you still need to be sure to clean these locations too.

Next, think about where you’re going to spray. Overspray can be a mess to clean up and that has to be taken into consideration. If you’re working in a closed garage or a closed space, be sure that you have more than adequate ventilation. These are some fairly strong chemicals that you are dealing with and you want to avoid breathing them in as much as possible.

By all means, avoid bare bulbs or any source of heat or ignitions while you’re spraying. Open flames are also a giant no-no, as these solvent fumes are nearly explosive.

And remember, you’re going to have to get the fluids all under the car, so it’s best to work under a pit, if possible. If not, see that the car is safely up on blocks and keep in mind that you may have to remove the wheels to get a good coat.

Finally, go over the car as completely as possible with the rust-proofing solution. If any piece of the car is exposed to the air, give it at least one coat. By carefully following the manufacturer’s direction, you’ll keep yourself safe and significantly extend the life of your car.

This maneuverability is brought to you courtesy of the hydraulics of your power steering system. In that system, pressurized power steering fluid gets squeezed and pumped around, moving levels and all sorts of things the average car owner doesn’t care to understand in order to move the actual wheels of the car.

As with any sealed system, the power steering system has – well – seals. And gaskets. And eventually, these begin to wear down. Bits of detritus begin to contaminate the power steering fluid, so that the pump has to work harder to pump the trash-bearing power steering fluid. Eventually, the pump wears out and has to be replaced and then you’re looking at the big bucks.

Checking your power steering fluid regularly can help you two ways. First, you can make sure there’s enough power steering fluid in the system to keep things working well. Second, you can make sure the power steering fluid is clean and that the system as a whole doesn’t need some preventative maintenance.

To find out where your power steering fluid reservoir is, consult your owner’s manual. Don’t have a manual? Check your car manufacturer’s website – they probably have the information you need online. Once you know where to find the reservoir, see if the manual recommends checking the engine cold, hot or both.

To check the fluid level, locate the reservoir on your car. If the reservoir is clear, there will be fill level lines on the reservoir itself. See how the fluid level measures up. If the reservoir isn’t clear, look for a dipstick under the cap. This next bit goes just like checking your oil. Remove the cap and dipstick and then wipe the dipstick on a clean rag or paper towel. Reinsert the dipstick. Remove it after a moment and read the level.

Power steering fluid shouldn’t be cloudy and it shouldn’t have bits of black stuff in it. If it does, it’s probably time to have the steering system checked more thoroughly. If the fluid looks fine but the level is a little low, purchase the type of power steering fluid recommended by your car manufacturer and add it – you may also need a funnel to avoid spilling the fluid.

However, there are some power steering systems that are “sealed” – should only be checked by a mechanic. If you have one of these types of cars, your owner’s manual will let you know.

If you notice that your car makes a noise when you turn the steering wheel sharply, it’s probably a good idea to ask a mechanic to look at your car’s steering system. As with most car systems, problems caught early are usually much less expensive to repair than problems caught later.

Oil can be either “regular” oil – which is the petroleum-based product we’re all familiar with – or a synthetic oil product. Synthetic oils have a number of differences that are directly related to the oil properties outlined above.

Synthetic oils generally contain more additives than regular motor oils. These additives help the oil and your engine stay cleaner longer, which allows the oil to last longer between changes. Anything you can do to keep your engine clean and functioning well will obviously prolong the life of your car. Synthetic oils also tolerate extremities in temperature better than regular motor oils.

With these advantages, it would seem like synthetic motor oils would be the logical choice for any car. However, there are some downsides to using synthetic motor oils.

Synthetic motor oils cost more than traditional motor oils. This is somewhat offset by the fact that synthetic motor oils last longer and don’t have to be changed as often. Cars using regular motor oil need oil changes about every 3,000 to 5,000 miles, while cars using synthetic motor oil only need oil changes about every 25,000 miles. However, the oil filter still needs to be changed often – about every 5,000 miles at a minimum.

In addition, the other services performed during a oil change – for example, checking the transmission and brake fluid levels – still need to be performed on a regular basis; again, about every 5,000 miles at a minimum. These regular checks can help head off expensive repairs and shouldn’t be ignored – even if it’s not time for another oil chance. The synthetic oil should also be checked regularly to make sure that it hasn’t become contaminated. For some people, not having the oil changed during these regular service checks just isn’t that great a benefit, since they have to take their cars in regularly anyways.

You may also want to take climate considerations into account when choosing between synthetic and regular motor oil. Synthetic oils have long been used by the military, since military vehicles can be subjected to incredibly wide temperature variations. A vehicle could be used in the desert heat one day and in icy conditions two days later. Synthetic oils can handle these variations without problem. However, most automobiles simply don’t experience changes in condition this extreme. Could synthetic oil offer additional protection for stop and go city driving in extremely hot or cold weather? Yes, but the additional protection offered may not be worth the additional cost.

One final consideration – your engine oil touches a number of malleable parts, like seals and gaskets. These parts swell in response to the contact with the oil. Changing your oil could cause changes in the seals and gaskets, leading to oil leaks and costly repairs. Unless you have a brand new car and want to run synthetic oil from the beginning, you’re probably better off sticking with the same oil you’ve been using.

First, if it’s time for an oil change, have your oil changed. Many other important tasks happen during the course of an oil change – the mechanics also check your brake fluid and look at your hoses and belts for wear. If the place where you regularly have your engine oil changed doesn’t perform these additional checks, find out if they provide this service or plan to have it done elsewhere. An ounce of preventive maintenance is worth a ton of repair bills.

You should also have your radiator flushed and filled. The coolant in your car’s radiator keeps your engine from overheating – in fact, this is the same system that keeps your engine from freezing in the winter. It’s a good idea to flush and fill your radiator at any major seasonal changes to remove any debris or gunky buildup that would prevent the coolant from doing its job.

Now is also a good time to replace your windshield wipers. In many areas, spring and summer bring with them lots of showers and thunderstorms. You want to make sure you can see out of your windshield, and wipers are inexpensive and easy to replace. This is also a good time to make sure your windshield washer fluid reservoir is full.

If you were in an area that required snow tires, it’s time to retire them and go back to using all purpose or all season tires. This is also a good time to have your tires rotated and balanced and your alignment and brakes checked if they’re giving you any signs there could be something amiss. And when you’re working with your tires, always remember to check your spare. Make sure it’s the right size for your car, in good repair and has plenty of air in case it’s needed.

The beginning of warm weather is also a good time to check your car’s air conditioning. Turn the air conditioning on and see how it’s working. Is the air cold? Does it come out with sufficient force? If the answer to either of those questions is no, it’s time to take your care in for repairs.

Just as you wear sunscreen outside to protect your skin from sun damage, your car’s finish and paint can be damaged by exposure to the sun. Apply a good coat of wax or paint sealant at the beginning of the season to help prevent the sun from damaging your car’s paint. To protect the vinyl surfaces inside your car, have them treated with a protectant that will prevent cracking or fading.

And finally, the changing of seasons is also a good time to take a look at your car’s first aid kits – both the one for the people and the one for the car. Replace any materials that are past their prime, add any seasonal specifics – like additional water to drink – and dispose of any materials that have lost their effectiveness, such as dead flashlight batteries.

Fortunately, changing your air filter is a fairly simple process. A quick peek at your owner’s manual will help you locate your air filter. Beyond that, you’ll need a new air filter, a flat head screwdriver, and a cool, refreshing beverage. Stop by your local auto parts store for the air filter – if you can’t figure out which one is right for your car, ask a sales person for help.

Replacing your air filter is best done when your engine is cool and you have plenty of light. Your car engine should be turned off. Open the hood of your car and fasten it in the upright and opened position. Look for the housing that contains the air filter – this is usually a black plastic case that’s held in place with metal clips on the sides. Unfasten the metal clips to remove the top of the housing. You may need your screwdriver to help flip the clips open.

Some housings are held in place with a nut and washer. If that’s the case with your car, be sure to keep track of any parts you remove. There are few things more frustrating than putting down a small part and then not being able to find it when you need it later.

With the housing lid open, take a good look at the air filter. The air filter will look like a ring, tube or box of folded white paper held together by a rubber fitting. Pay special attention to how the filter sits inside its housing and what the top looks like. When you’ve got that memorized, remove the filter carefully. You may be surprised at how much comes out with the filter – you’ll find dirt, bugs, trash and more. Be careful to get everything out and then set the used filter aside.

Now, put the new filter in place. Since you took a good look at the old filter’s position before you removed it, it should be easy to position the new filter. Make sure the rubber ring and gasket are sitting in the correct position and consult your manual if you aren’t sure.

Your final step is to replace the housing lid and fasten it into place by replacing either the clips or the washer and nut you removed before. Once everything is firmly in place, you can close your car hood. The older filter and the box from the new filter can be discarded – a lot of folks pop the old filter in the box to help keep the dirt contained, preventing the need for lots of cleanup once you’re done.

That’s it. You’ve just replaced your air filter – now you can enjoy that cool refreshing beverage as your reward, along with improved gas mileage and a sense of satisfaction you’ll get from doing your own auto maintenance.

First, don’t skimp on the cost – go to an established, reputable detailer. Call around and ask who the auto dealers and mechanics use for their cars. A town of any size should have at least one shop that’s made a name for itself in the detailing business.

But don’t stop there – ask some questions before you settle on a shop. The shop should have, at a minimum, a place to do the work inside. Sunlight and hot weather can cause the detergents to dry quickly and spot the surface. They should be well stocked with manuals and many different kinds of cleaning products. Different auto manufacturers have different recommendations as to how to clean their car’s interiors – a good shop will be well aware of all these requirements.

Next, if you have the opportunity, watch them detail a car. They should use plenty of water and begin each job with a good soak – this helps to loosen the bigger particulates and road grime on a car.

You should also check on their equipment. Ask if they have a carpet extractor machine – this really separates the pros from the guy who’s simply adding onto his business. Having one of these means that they’re really going to clean your carpets – not just spray on some canned cleaner you could pick up at the mega mart and brush the carpets dry. See if the wet vacuum is five horsepower or greater – anything less is a toy and won’t do the job. Pros know this and go all out for the really big cleaners.

Look for testimonials, especially from used car dealers. A clean car is worth more and a dealer will keep using a detailer that increases his bottom line.

Finally, many people get the idea that they can do the detailing work themselves. After all, it’s nothing more than a more intense cleaning, right? In essence, yes. And you win the Indy 500 by driving fast. But if you think that’s all you need to know, you are sadly mistaken. For a big detailing job, particularly if you’re trying to add to the value of a car, go with a pro.

However, don’t let the expense or lure of detailing lead you to put off general cleaning. The cleaner your car is, the easier it will be to detail. Deal with even the smallest scratch as soon as you can and get dings to the body shop quickly. Keep a good wax or paint sealant on the car at all times. These things not only look good, but protect and seal the finish as well. And as much as possible, get your car out of the weather. If a garage isn’t an option, at least invest in a car cover to protect your baby between detailing sessions.